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say they plan to stay open through Hurricane Florence despite torrential rain and harsh winds. (Robert Gourley / For the Times) As the rain and wind started to bear down on Wilmington before dusk, and all the big-box stores, restaurants and gas stations were dark, the lights were still on at the Waffle House. “We’re not closing unless it gets unsafe — if the hurricane pulls off the roof or breaks the glass,” said Matt, a Waffle House employee who stood under an awning outside the Market Street location to greet a stream of families and loners, locals and out-of-towners. Josh Honeycutt runs to his car after picking up food at Waffle House, as the leading edge of Hurricane Florence starts to hit the area, (Mark Wilson / Getty Images) As usual, cooks cracked eggs and slung hash browns on the grill top. Servers poured coffee with a “There you go, sweetie.” But many of the employees were not local. Part of the Waffle House “jump team,” they were brought in from other states to cover during the emergency. The store had a limited menu. Eggs were just scrambled, not over easy or sunny side up. Hash browns were not scattered, smothered, covered, chunked or topped. After securing his deck furniture and filling his bathtub with water, Charles Ezzell, 77, a barber who owns a retail shopping center, ordered an All-Star Special breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausage, grits and wheat bread with strawberry jelly.
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Because the restaurant also has no tables — just an arching, semicircular counter — guests sit side by side, facing the cooks as they work in a softly illuminated open kitchen. The dining room itself is intimate, windowless and hushed, a curved wall sloping to meet the ceiling and floor. It isn’t a theater, but it feels a bit like one. “There’s no separation, there’s no dividing wall. It’s really about the chefs being in front and taking their center stage,” said Eric Jeffay, Somni’s general manager. “We try and flesh out this experience as much as possible.” Chef Aitor Zabala welcomes diners to Somni, the new fine-dining restaurant tucked into the SLS hotel. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times) To describe a dining experience as theatrical might bring to mind campy dinner-with-a-show Vegas productions, which Somni is not. But you do buy tickets in advance instead of making a reservation and receive a playbill-esque menu with the names of the entire kitchen staff at the end. And there are elements of drama woven through the night. To get to Somni, you have to walk through the Bazaar restaurant, an over-the-top, whimsical space that previously housed a tarot card reader and a caricature artist in its early days.
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